In Veneto region, Baccalà is stockfish. That is, dried cod. In Italian, salt cod is called Baccalà. In this recipe for cod in tomato sauce, we use the latter: cod that has to be desalted. To remove the salt, it is brushed off and put into water for 24 hours, changing the water about 4 times. You can also use fresh sliced cod instead. The meat, however, will tend to cook earlier and release quite a bit of water. Salting, in fact, is an ancient method of preserving fish flesh, which makes it compact and free of water.

So is drying, but it makes the fish take much longer to cook and needs more liquid, of course.

The best combination with cod in tomato sauce is always polenta. If you want to intensify the briny taste, add a boned salted sardine. Make sure, however, that the tomato puree is not salted at all or you risk having a dish that is too savoury.

It is a dish that needs the right amount of rest to blend the flavours. It is best prepared in advance and then reheated.

Ingredients for 4 people

• 500 g desalted cod or 600 g fresh cod in pieces;
• 50 g white onion;
• 250 g high-quality tomato sauce;
• 500 g high quality chopped, filleted or peeled tomatoes;
• 500 g hot water (you will need all of it if you use stockfish, otherwise you might not even need it);
• 25 g triple concentrated tomato puree (optional);
• 50 g of extra virgin olive oil;
• 100 g white wine;
• bay leaves and cloves to taste;
• salt and pepper/chilli pepper to taste.

Preparation methodology

Fry the thinly sliced onion on Ghisanativa with the oil over a medium heat. Add a little water if necessary so that it does not stick. Add the peeled tomatoes, without the seeds, which are bitter. Then, the sauce and the concentrate, if you like. Finally, add the spices such as cloves, herbs and chilli pepper. Allow the sauce to reduce for 10 minutes over a low heat.

Add the desalted cod, cut into pieces of about 5 cm, roughly similar in size. If it has its skin on, lay this side down on the pan.

Shake the pan, add the wine and slowly bring to the boil. After five minutes, when the wine has evaporated, put the lid on, slightly open, and finish cooking for a further 10 minutes maximum. Do not stir, just turn the fish around. However, the sauce should be ¾ full so there should be no need.

Add salt and chilli, if necessary.

Just before serving, add chopped parsley to taste.

If you use fresh cod, the cooking time is halved. But be careful, let the tomato sauce reduce well at first because the fish will release a lot of water. If, after 6 or 7 minutes, it does not reach the consistency you like and remains brothy, it is better to remove the fish, allow the sauce to evaporate and re-insert it.

If you use stockfish, on the other hand, you must first brown the pieces of fish, then add the wine. In sequence add the tomato and cook for 3 hours on a very low heat with the lid just ajar and without stirring. Add hot water as much as you need to keep the cod in tomato sauce moist while cooking. Turn the pieces once after two hours, one by one, carefully.

Roberta de Salvador

“Bellunese doc, omnivorous and publicist journalist with a passion for food and wine. She graduated in Communication Sciences and then did a 10 kg master’s degree at Gambero Rosso, kilos she lost with a healthy diet and lots of walking in the mountains. The recipes she shares with us revisit traditional Italian cuisine and are repeatable even for those who are not PRO cooks.”

This recipe was prepared on